CHAP. IX.

THE GREAT NORTH ROAD.

IT must be acknowledged, that Retford, standing on the line of the Great North Road, from edinburgh-to London, is considerably enlivened and benefitted by the constant succession of travellers whose business or pleasure may lead them to visit or pass through it. Formerly, however, it did not contribute much to the welfare of the town, but passed across the forest, leaving the present line at Markham Moor, and entering it again at Barnby Moor: from this circumstance may be inferred the paucity of information which we possess respecting the state of the town at different periods of its history, as it was considered out of the course of general tourists, and consequently but little noticed. One traveller, however, seems to have made Retford in his route,.—I allude to drunken Barnaby, who, hi one of his peregrinations to the north, took up his quarters here, and of which he wrote in his usual rhyming style as follows,

"Thence to Retford, fish I fed on,
And to th’ adage, I had read on,
With carouses I did trim me,
That my fish might swim within me,
As they had done being living
And in the river nimbly diving."

About the middle of the eighteenth century, the advantages of bringing the line of the North Road through Retford, became quite apparent to the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood. I find the following minute in the books belonging to the Corporation.

"Jan. 26th, 1757.—It was ordered that the Town Clerk should write to Mr. Bright, the junior bailiff," (who was then in London,) "desiring him in the name of the bailiffs and burgesses to apply to the Members of Parliament; for the Borongh, to bring a Bill into Parliament to make a road or turnpike from where the old guide post stood upon Markham Common, to a bridge upon the North River in Scrooby parish, and that he should wait upon the county members, desiring their concurrence and assistance in getting the same enacted."

For some years after this, however, the measure lay dormant, and, as is generally the case in most new undertakings, numerous obstacles presented themselves, which were not fully overcome until the year 1760, when an Act of Parliament was obtained, the preamble of which runs as follows—

"Whereas, the road leading from Bawtry, in the county of York, through Barnby Moor and East Retford, in the county of Nottingham, and from East Retford to the south end of East Markham Common, called the West Moor, where it joins, the Great North Road, leading from London to York; and also the road from Little Drayton, to a certain bridge, called. Twyford Bridge, in the said county of Nottingham, is narrow and ruinous, and cannot be sufficiently repaired, widened, and kept in repair, by the ordinary course of law: May it please, &c.

In this Act one hundred and sixty eight trustees are named, out of which two only now survive; these are A. H. Eyre, Esq. of Grove, and his brother the Rev. Archdeacon Eyre, of Babworth. The first general meeting of the trustees was held at Mr. John Booth’s, the Crown Inn, at East Retford, on friday, May 9th, 1760.

From this time a new era commenced in the history of this town, and the vivifying rays of commerce began to shed their invigorating influence over the town and neighbourhood. The heavy carriages which were then employed in the conveyance of merchandize, and all letters intended for this part of the country, came direct to the town, and Retford began to assume an additional importance and respectability.

THE DEANRY OF RETFORD.

According to ecclesiastical jurisdiction, Retford is in the diocese of York, and the Archdeaconry of Nottingham, of which county it forms one of the deanries. According to Burns, "the institution of Deanries, bears a resemblance and relation to the methods and. forms of civil government, which obtained in the early ages of the church throughout the western empire." The office was instituted in this country, at an early period of its history, which gave to the persons delegated thereto, an authority over all canons, presbyters, and vicars, until Otho, (the Pope’s legate) required the Archdeacon to be present at the holding of the Chapters, who being superior to the rural Deans, took the presidency out of their hands, since which period, many of the Deanries have existed but in name, and the business devolved upon the Archdeacon, or his official, who transacted it at his annual visitation.

Anciently Retford formed one of these Deanries, it however, now, but nominally exists; nevertheless, the power is still vested. in the hands of the Archdeacon, who holds his Visitations every year in the Parish Church, where the clergy, churchwardens, &c. of the following places (composing the Deanry) are required to attend.

NAME OF PLACE.

POP. 1821

PATRON.

INCUMBENT.

Austerfield

C

242

Same as Blyth

Same as Blyth

Bawtry

C

1027

Ditto

Ditto

Babworth

R

416

Hon. J. B. Simpson

Archdeacon Eyre

Boughton

C

289

Chapter of Southwell

Rev. S. Oliver

Blythe

V

801

Trinity College, Cambridge

J. Rudd

Bothamsall

C

310

The Duke of Newcastle

J. Mason

Bilsthorpe

R

252

Hon. & Rev. J. L. Savile

H. Gordon

Carburton

C

154

Same as Edwinstowe

Same as Edwinstow

Carlton in Lindric

R

888

Archbishop of York

Rev. C. W. Eyre

Clarborough

V

1929

Richard Woodhouse, Esq.

J. W. Brooks

Clayworth

R

431

Dean of Lincoln

T. H. Shepherd

Cottam

C

74

Dean of Lincoln

J.Cleaver, L.L.D.

Edwinstow

V

648

Dean and Chap. of Lincoln

Ditto

Egmanton

V

320

Duke of Newcastle

Rev. E. Smith

East Markham

V

756

Duke of Newcastle

S. Becher

Elksley

V

347

Ditto

G. Booth

EAST RETFORD

V

2465

Sir Richard Sutton, Bart

T. F. Beckwith

Everton

V

641

Duke of Devonshire

R. Evans

Finningley

V

368

–– Harvey, Esq.

W. Harvey

Gamston

R

385

The King

J. Brooke

Gringley on the H.

V

647

Duke of Rutland

J. Holt

Grove

R

166

A. H. Eyre, Esq.

A. Youle

Hayton

V

244

Archbishop of York

W. Tiffin

Harworth

V

395

Mr. Hartley

W. Downes

Hedon

V

241

A. H. Eyre, Esq.

G. H. Eyre

Kirton

R

200

Duke of Newcastle

T. Blandford

Littleborough

P C

64

Geo. S. Foljambe Esq.

J. Hewgill

Mattersea

V

426

Archbishop of York

W. Tiffin

Misson

V

720

The King

J. Nicholson

Norton Cuckney

V

818

Earl Manvers

G. Holt

North Wheatley

V

441

Lord Middleton

F. Hewgill

Ollerton

C

576

Same as Edwinstow

Same as Edwinstow

Ordsall

R

632

Lord Wharncliffe

Rev F. Foxlowe

Palesthorpe

C

93

Same as Edwinstow

Same as Edwinstow

Rossington

R

383

Corporation of Doncaster

Rev. J. Stovin, D. D

Saundby

R

101

Lord Middleton

F. Hewgill

Scrooby

V

269

Same as Sutton

Same as Sutton

South Leverton

V

300

Dean of Lincoln

Rev. J. Cleaver, L.L.D.

Sturton

V

605

Dean and Chap. of York

F. Hewgill

Sutton-cum-Lound

V

717

Duke of Portland

T. Hurt

Tresswell

R

216

Dean and Chap. of York

R. Affleck

Tuxford

V

979

Trinity College, Cambridge

E. B. Elliott

Wellow

R

444

Hon. & Rev. J. L. Savile

J. Blandford

Walesby

V

308

Hon. & Rev. J. L. Savile

Rev T. Sampson

Warsop

R

1072

H.G. Knight, Esq.

S. Martin

West Burton

C

37

D.Walters, Esq.

W. Mould

West Dravton

V

117

Same as E. Markham

Same as E. Markham

Walkeringham

V

518

Trin. Col. Cambridge

Rev. J. K. Miller

West Retford

R

671

Corporation of E. Retford

A. Youle

West Markham

V

209

Duke of Newcastle

G. Booth

Worksop

V

4567

Duke of Norfolk

T. Stacye

In the above, V. stands for Vicarage; R. Rectory; P.C. Perpetual curacy; C. Chapelry.

THE CHESTERFIELD CANAL.

This highly useful undertaking, which forms a prominent feature in the history of this place, was begun in the year 1771, and first opened throughout the whole line on the 12th of September, 1777. Previous to this, the northern districts of this county were greatly deficient in that mode of commercial intercourse, and the trade much clogged and impeded from the high rate of land carriage. In the year 1770, the scheme appeared so manifestly advantageous, and its result so certain, that an Act of Parliament was obtained, constituting 175 individuals, as trustees of the body corporate, under the title of "The Company of the Proprietors of the Canal Navigation, from Chesterfield to the River Trent;" to have perpetual succession, and a common seal. The ground space on the line specified in the Act, including the canal, towing paths, ditches, drains, fences, &c. was not allowed to exceed twenty-six yards in breadth, except in such places where the canal shall be raised higher, or cut more than five feet deeper than the present surface."

By another clause it is enacted that no person or persons whatever, "shall cause to be erected or built any wharf or warehouse, or other building, upon or within one hundred yards of either side of the said cut or canal, in any part of a certain common called East Retford Common, between a point of the said canal, beginning ten yards west of the south-east corner of a certain ground or garden in East Retford aforesaid, belonging to the heirs of John White, Esq. deceased, and now or late in the occupation of William Wilson, adjoining the said common, and a certain place called the Spaw, situate upon the said common."

This canal enters the county of Nottingham near Shireoaks, and after passing Worksop, Osberton, and Babworth, in a circuitous course, comes into this parish in the south-west, and just skirting the town on the south, it suddenly changes its course towards the north, and after passing through eleven or twelve parishes, falls into the Trent at Stockwith. The distance from Chesterfield to Stockwith, taking the line of the canal, is about forty-six miles, and from Norwood its regular fall is three hundred and thirty-five feet.

The quantity of land taken up in this parish by the excavations, banks, &c. was the property of those free-holders of Retford, who possess the right of pasturage upon the cars and commons, amounted in the aggregate to six acres and fourteen perches; the canal company’s allowance for the same, was £47. 7s. 6d. which sum, on the 5th of November, 1778, was agreed to be expended in draining the cars and commons agreeably to Mr. Varley’s plan.

From Retford to Stockwith, the canal is on a more extended scale, and the locks double the width they are from Retford to Chesterfield. Thus we find from a memorandum in the books of the Corporation of this place, dated the 13th of September, 1775, that it was resolved by the bailiffs and aldermen, that £600 should be borrowed by the Corporation, and the same sum paid to the Chesterfield Canal Company for making the canal from East Retford common to Stockwith upon, a larger plan, whereby vessels of greater burden can navigate the said canal, than otherwise would have been the case.

To enumerate the advantages which have already resulted to the town and neighbourhood from this superior method of communication, would be quite superfluous; suffice it to say, they have been generally felt by all classes; and, although the principal aim of the original projectors was the export of agricultural produce, and the importation of coals from the adjacent mines in the county of Derby, together with that of lime, timber, and other heavy articles; yet, the facility of intercourse which it ensures with our home markets, and the communication it offers with the port of Hull and consequently with every part of the globe, renders it the medium of imparting the necessaries of life, at a rate more moderate and easy than any other which has yet been devised.

The canal company have a commodious warehouse for the reception of corn and other commodities, at which, an attendance is given by Mr. William Welsh, their sub-agent and warehouseman. The canal passes over the river Idle on the south-west of the town.

THE RIVER IDLE, ETC.

To some of my readers it may appear strange, that a subject, apparently so trifling and insignificant as the Mills of Retford, should be deemed worthy of notice; nevertheless, from their great antiquity, and the laudable purposes to which the rents and profits were originally appropriated, they demand a brief notice. Alan de Bolleshour, about the beginning of the thirteenth century, gave to his nephew, Henry Norrays, and his heirs, the moiety of the Mills of Retford, with the suits, works, fishing, and all customs; at whose decease they descended to the next heir at law,—Philip de Houlecotes, his cousin, who gave the said moiety to the abbey of Wellebek, according to the tenor of the charters of King Richard I. and King John, for the sustentation of two chaplains in the church at Wellebek, and of one in his church at Stirape, to celebrate divine service for ever, for his soul. During the greatest part of the reign of King John, this Philip was accounted a very great man, he served the office of Sheriff of Northumberland, and had writs to free him from scutages, &c. He died without male issue, leaving five sisters who divided the inheritance amongst them; and the moiety of the Mills of Retford, amongst other property, falling to the share of Alice de Stirape, she confirmed the gift which her brother Philip had thereof made; after which, Hamelin de Buggethorpe, and Margaret his wife, coming into possession of the property, (Margaret being the second sister of the said Philip,) they also confirmed the gift to the said abbey, and all other donations which their predecessors had made.* After the demise of all the sisters, the inheritance became the property of the crown. On the 17th of April, 1227, O.S., King Henry III, gave to the abbey of Wellebek, the Mills of Retford, to be holden of him in fee-farm, paying £10 per annum, saving to the heirs of Ralph Tessun, (a very distant branch of the same family,) if he should recover his inheritance in Watelegh (Wheatley) of 40s. per annum, which the said abbot and canons were to pay over and above the £10 per annum.

Hubert de Burgo, Earl of Kent, and Justice of England, who was lord of the manor of Wheatley, considering the love of God, and for the safety of his own soul, and of his wife’s, Margaret (the daughter of the King of Scotland,) and of their heirs, gave to God, and the church of St. James at Wellebek, and the canons there serving God, and to serve God, 40s. yearly rent which he had out of the Mills of Retford, which the above named Ralph Tessun was wont to receive; and likewise granted that his men of Wheatley should do suit to the said Mills of the said abbot and convent, according as, they ought and were wont.

On the 8th of May, 1265, it was adjudged in the Court of Exchequer, that the men of Retford should also do suit to the Mills of the abbot and convent of Wellebek, at Retford, duly as other the king’s burgesses and sokemen then did; and it was there noted that the men of Retford, who would be called burgesses, were the king’s sokemen, and so called in Doomsday book. Hugh Levyn, and other men of Retford, withdrew themselves from the suit, whereupon the abbot, in the year 1276, procured a writ to the sheriff to distrain upon them according to the previous judgment.#

In the 37th Henry the Third, John Power, Robert de Morton, Oliver de Barton, and John Stirapp, were assigned to view the passage of the river Idle, through the towns of West Retford, Bolin, Tilne, Sutton, Lound, Mathersege, Scrooby, Scafteworth, Claworth, Everton, and Herewell; and to cause them to be cleansed and scoured, in regard that by their obstructions with sand, weeds, and the like, the lands and meadows of divers persons had been overflowed and drowned.

Again in 1388, Will. de Skipwith, Robert de Morton, Oliver de Barton, Elias de Thoresby, John de Bekering, Will. Power, of Tylne, and John de Whetlay, were constituted commissioners to view the course of the river Idle, through the towns of Elkessay, Gamelatone, Eton, Ordeshall, Est Redforde, West Retford, Bolum, Tylne, Sutton, Lound, Mathersay, Thorpe, Scrooby, Scafteworth, Claworth, Everton, Harewell, and Hayton; which, for want of cleansing, had drowned the lands of sundry persons, and to cause the same to be scoured.

This property continued in the quiet possession of the abbots of Welbeck, until the dissolution of the monasteries, when it again became the property of the crown; it was then valued at £2. 17s. 4d. per annum; shortly after, by some means, it came into the hands of the Corporation of Retford, where it now remains. On the east side of the river is a large and commodious corn mill, tenanted by Mr. Thomas Foster; a large building also adjoining, erected some years, was at first used as a manufactory for candlewick, but it is now used by Mr. Foster, as a warehouse: on the west side of the river is an extensive paper mill, in the occupation of Mr. Horatio Nelson, it was erected in 1794.

The river Idle (by whose waters the above mills are propelled,) can scarcely be said properly to assume that name, until it comes to a point a little north of Palethorpe; it is there formed by the junction of two streams, one of which rises in the forest between Kirkby and Newstead Abbey, and is called the Maun; the other named the Meden, rises in the vicinity of Hard-wick, near Sutton in Ashfield. The Idle, after this, runs nearly in a northerly direction through Thoresby and Houghton Parks, to Retford, where, after passing through the cars, it forms the boundary between the parishes of East and West Retford; its course then takes a zig-zag direction to Mattersey, thence northwest to Bawtry, where it suddenly alters its course to the east, forming for some distance the boundary between the counties of York and Nottingham, afterwards traversing the car near Misterton, it empties itself into the Treat near its junction with the Chesterfield Canal, at the north-eastern angle of the county.

Formerly the Idle was navigable from this place to Bawtry for boats and other small craft; it is now, however, what its name imports it to he—completely idle, as far as navigation goes, and in all probability will so remain. On the 25th of June, 1757, It was resolved at a meeting of the Corporation of Retford, that four of the aldermen should be empowered to inquire into the possibility of making the river Idle navigable from Retford to Stockwith, and to report to the body accordingly; but whether the scheme (from the expense,) was found to be impracticable, or whether the idea of a canal was suggested to them, does not appear, as no report whatever is entered on the Corporation records.

THE CARS AND COMMONS.

Anciently these cars and commons were the property of William de’ Anne, Lord of Noraisfee, of Greenley, who held them along with other lands adjoining in that parish, until the year 1319, when he granted "to at the men of Rettforde," their heirs and assigns, the "common pasture, with all manner their cattle in the Mikelmore of Rettforde, and in Dallcroft, and in the marsh, which is called Rettforde Karre, and in the Holmes which are between the waters," as they had been accustomed to have, so that they might be able at any time of the year to common in the aforesaid places "with all manner their cattle, and to mow with scythes, and to take away what they had mown." provided that they should not afterward "mow or common in Greenley meadows which are between the waters." He also granted to the said "men of Rettforde, their gates in all places in the circuit of the town of Rettforde, to have free ingress and egress to their gates, and with free chase and rechase with their carts and animals, in all places in the circuit of the said town." He also further granted that they should "have and hold their fair in Dallcroft as usual without impediment, so that they and their heirs, and any merchant or other person coming to the said fair should not be disturbed or distrained of their goods in the aforesaid place, during all the time of the fair ;" for all of which grants, the "men of Rettforde" gave him "a certain sum of money," not specified therein.

Formerly a considerable portion of the cars and commons was of little value, being chiefly marsh; latterly, however, considerable improvements have been made, (chiefly under the direction of the late John Kirke, Esq.) so that instead of a bog, they present a fine open space to the south and west, and as they will not be built upon, they are likely to embellish the environs of the town, and contribute in a great measure to the health and longevity of the inhabitants. The quantity of land in the whole is about 50 acres, and the right of pasturage is vested in those freeholders who have obtained "GATES," either by purchase, or by heiring property in the town to which they were attached. Of these gates there are 276, the value of each being estimated at about £20.

Connected with this subject, in some measure, is the common-sewer which divides the borough from the hamlet of Little Greenley, because, it proceeds from the common, which was, on the 1st April, 1282, granted by Alexander fitz Henry le Norays, as follows.—."All that Foss which is called the Beck between my Fee of Grenelay, and the Fee of the Lord the King and of the Burgesses of Retteford, with all its length from Est-croc-sich, unto the water of the Yddel without any retenement, have I procured to be impleaded to the said Burgesses; to have and to hold to the said Burgesses and Commonalty and their heirs, freely, quitely, &c. in right, in fee, and in inheritance, for ever, with free regress and ingress and other easements to the said Foss pertaining."

* Register de Wellebek, page 167.
# Com. term Mich. 4 Ed. I.