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Stapleford (1)
WHEN the Head Teacher of the Council Schools for Boys (Mr. Spencer) informed
me that he had an annual custom of sending a Christmas letter to the
old and present boys of his School, and he asked me to write this year's
letter, I felt that I must comply, not only because I considered the
idea an excellent one, worthy of being carried out, but I thought the
reason why he had wished me to write was, that fifty years ago I often
used to talk to the Stapleford boys and girls, whom I suppose you now
call your fathers or grandfathers, and mothers or grandmothers. I have
also treasured the friendship of many persons I then knew in Stapleford.
I will name three only:—Joseph Fearfield, who had always a smile
and an apple, and both were good; John Harrison, who had music in his
soul; and Thomas Dalley, who went about doing good.
My letter shall be of the things that are or have been around you, and
of events that occurred in Stapleford ; that these may help you to proceed
from the known to the unknown, to learn from the past lessons for your
future guidance.
Where shall we begin? I like those four words in Genesis, "In
the beginning God "—for with God on the scene all objects,
including matter, life, conscience, follow naturally. We will not, however,
go so far back as that. We will begin with the ground that is under your
feet.
In "The Geology of Stapleford and Sandiacre" Mr. J. Shipman
says:—" I know of no similar area where so much work for
the field geologist is crowded into such a small space." He shows
how the rocks have been shattered and displaced by faults, and pushed
up or let down, "as to remind one of a patchwork quilt or Mosaic
pavement." He then refers to the millstone grit on Stony Clouds,
to the Bunter pebble beds, the Waterstones, the Coal measures, the glacial
drift deposits, the alluvial deposits of the Erewash, etc., all of which
I am not competent to discuss, but I suggest you should form classes
for the study of them.
As evidence of the glacial period, he gives a picture of the boulder
clay, much Contorted, resting on crumpled-up upper keuper shales, at
Wilsthorpe Brickyard, Sandiacre, in 1883. He says that "both parishes
are just on the southern edge of the great Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire,
and Yorkshire coalfields. North of a line drawn east and west through
the north side of these villages stretch the coal measures and lower
carboniferous rocks, which have been forced up into a great saddle-back,
or anti-clinical ridge, now known as the Pennine Chain. South of this
east and west line the new Red Sandstone strata have been faulted down
two or three hundred feet." He speaks of a deposit of drift close
to Bob's Rock resting "against an old cliff of Bunter Sandstone
much fissured and weathered, which formed a sheltered nook in which the
sand was deposited when the country was submerged during one of the stages
of the glacial period."
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Bob's Rock. |
How shall we Read that Stone Book?—Let us shut
our eyes and try to imagine that in vast ages ago the climate here, over
what is now called Stapleford, was hot and moist; the land being partly
in the water and partly out; the vegetation rich with gigantic ferns
(such as flourish in Ceylon), and peat mosses grown in vast swamps, and
then the vegetation having been covered up and gasses generated, having
formed what we now call coal; and this process having gone on with alternate
deposits of shale, clay, and sand; then another coal bed, and another,
until there are in the Nottinghamshire coal bearing measures two thousand
feet of strata, covering nine coal beds. The land sank, the sea covered
it with hundreds of feet of water, so that what is now called Stapleford
must have been at the bottom of the sea. Ages passed as newer beds of
rock were laid down in the centre and to the east of the county, and
in Lincolnshire. The scene changes, for a mighty upheaval lifts up the
Derbyshire hills (called the Pennine Eange) to vast heights, much of
which material has since been washed away; the result of that upheaval
being that the coal beds on the eastern side of the Pennine Range, including
Stapleford, dip to the east, while on the Lancashire side the dip is
to the west. The condition changes as ages pass, and the atmosphere becomes
as cold as Greenland now is; millions of tons of ice cover the land.
Again ages pass, the cold gradually relaxes, forests appear, and from
the great ice packs covering the Derbyshire hills, and the hills of Kirkby,
at the head of the Erewash Valley, the water washes and carries away
some of the land, and forms channels, such as the Erewash Valley, in
rushing down to the greater valley of the Trent, and some of the coal
deposits are washed away, so that one of the coal seams now appears in
Stapleford at the surface.
Let us now in thought take a leap of say 25,000 years—the period
suggested by Professor Kendall since the departure of the ice from Yorkshire—(a)
several thousand years more or less will make little difference—the
hills of Stapleford have been reduced by air, frost, rain, and the usual
wear, and the Erewash Valley has been raised by the deposit washed from
the hills. The action of the sun and rain on the surface, the work of
worms, and of decayed vegetation, have converted the sand and clay into
soil. The woolly rhinoceros, reindeer, lion, hyena, hippopotamus, mammoth,
etc , the bones of which have been found in Cresswell Caves, show that
these animals formerly haunted the district, and have long disappeared;
(b)the well-known habits of these animals tell us of the great extremes
of heat and cold through which the country passed in succeeding ages.
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The Hemlock Stone. |
The Hemlock Stone.—When the turbulent waters subsided they left
that remarkable object called the Hemlock Stone (possibly formerly Cromlech
Stone'), said to be 30 feet in height, and in girth about 70 feet. Protected
possibly by sand, and being capped by a wonderful cement of its own,
called barium sulphate, it defies the action of frost, rain, sun and
wind. It may in a distant age have been a gathering point for worship,
and it now stands in one of the beauty spots of the county, for "there
is no spot round Nottingham more picturesque on a bright summer's day
than the Hemlock Stone and its surroundings." " That stone
is an object of wonder and mystery to the passer-by; "(c) but
it is not so great a wonder as of the common things of life. Where do
we all come from? Where are we all going to? What is life? Why is pain?
How does a shoot grow from a seed? A chicken from an egg? A butterfly
from a chrysalis ?
The Name.—Was the name of Stapleford taken from the ford to the
market? The Anglo-Saxon word "staple" or "stapul" means
a step or post, and then a market for raw materials and goods. Is it
possible that the "stapul " or "post" was the old
pillar or cross, and that it gave its name to the parish? In "Domesday
Book" the word was spelt as now, but in Speed's map of 1610 it appears
as "Stappleford;" and Sandiacre as St. Iaker, and the same
appears in Bleau's Amsterdam map of 1648. In the opposite end of the
county, at a point where met the boundaries of three counties, there
is an old landmark called ''God's Cross." May this pillar have been
the God's Cross between two counties? It is very unlikely, but it is
not improbable that there may be some connection in the name between
the "post" and the "ford." It must be borne in mind
that the cap and the base of the cross are modern.
Early History.—The Romans who departed from England are said to
have had a station in Stapleford. They probably frequently passed on
the road between Nottingham and Derby. The Engles or Saxons came to England
in 449, and afterwards settled in Stapleford and neighbourhood. They
were doubtless greatly harassed by the Danes, who had two of their strongholds
in Nottingham and Derby, and who at intervals over one hundred and fifty
years made frequent raids, so that a tax had to be paid by the Anglo-Saxons,
called the Danegeld, on purpose to keep the Danes off, but the tax kept
on, even when the Danes were gone. Then came that great invasion called
the "The Norman Conquest." Nottingham Castle and all the surrounding
district was subdued, and William the Conqueror ordered an account to
be taken of the state of affairs in every parish in England. Twenty years
after the Conquest this account was completed and published. It is called "Domesday
Book." Let us now see what it says of Stapleford. "IIII Manors.
In Stapleford, Ulsi Cilt, and Staplewin and Goodwin and Gladwin had 2
carcuates of land and 6 bovates to be taxed. There is land to 8 ploughs.
William has in the demense there (Robert holds of him) 3 ploughs and
6 villeins with 6 ploughs and two bondmen. There is a priest and a church
and 58 acres of meadow. Value in King Edward's time 60/-, now 40/-."
Now, although the foregoing is a translation, it must be further translated.
In King Edward's time each of the four persons named had their own houses
and estates in Stapleford. Two carucates would probably be 240 acres,
and six bovates, probably fifteen acres each (for the terms here used
are variable or uncertain)—say 90 acres, so 380 acres assessed;
but there was land for three ploughs, query 360 acres of arable land.
Stapleford was now a manor belonging to William de Peverel. The former
owners were probably killed off in battle. Now Robert de Heriz, a Norman
soldier, holds the land and houses, subject to some fixed fee or tax,
and to service to be rendered to the king, and to his overlord, in the
wars whenever required. Robert has three ploughs, uncertain areas, and
he has six villeins, small farmers, who occupied a portion of land, possibly
thirty acres each in half-acre strips, belonging to Robert, and they
have to do his work on one or two days a week in removing his manure,
ploughing his land (and finding two oxen for that purpose), sowing his
seed, reaping his corn, etc. They cannot go away, they must live and
die here, although they have six ploughs. The two bondmen are worse off
still. They are serfs, and are sold like cattle; they are cowherds, or
swineherds, etc. The demesne is the domain or enclosure which was round
the Manor House, and up to and including the Church. It enclosed the
garaens, houses, fields and farm buildings of the lord of the manor.
The fifty-eight acres of meadow would be grass land probably near the
river, and would be enclosed, while the plough land would be in three
open fields in narrow strips. Then there would be the Moor and the woodland
unenclosed. The priest would be subject to the Archbishop of York, and
hold a portion of land.
The "ploughs" of occupation are not implements, but holdings
of areas much less in size than the "ploughs" for assessment.
The Church would most likely be built of timber and wattle, and be
thatched with straw or with reeds. The value for taxing purposes had
gone down one-third in twenty years by reason of the Conquest.
Here I want you to notice how the character of a word may, like the
character of a man, degenerate. That word "villein" meant
a person of poor social condition; now it means an infamous scoundrel.
William de Peverel, the overlord of Stapleford, was the son of William
the Conqueror, was appointed Governor of Nottingham Castle and of Sherwood
Forest, and he was lord of 162 manors in England and many houses and
lands, a large portion of his domain being in Derbyshire, hence Sir
Walter Scott's "Peveril of the Peak." He or his father founded
the Court called "The Honour of Peverel," with jurisdiction
in 127 villages in Nottinghamshire and 120 in Derbyshire, which continued
to a limited extent down to our own day. Between 1103 and 1108 he founded
the Priory of Lenton in honour of the Holy Trinity, and for the love
of divine worship and the common remedy of the souls of his lord, King
William, and others, including his own soul and those of his wife and
children; and he endowed the Priory with very extensive possessions,
for a list of which see the "Parish and Priory of Lenton," by
J. T Godfrey. Geoffrey de Heriz gave two parts of the tithes in his
demesne in Stapleford, and Robert de Heriz was one of the witnesses
to the charter. William de Peveril died in 1113.
Thoroton says that Richard de Cazmera married Lady Avicia of Stapleford,
who gave that church to Newstead Priory.
Phillip de Stadley (a.d. 1200) gave the King ten marks and a palfrey
for having the daughter of Avicia de Stapleford to wife with her inheritance!
Let us hope that Phillip made a very good bargain, and that love came
in somewhere.
Robert Matley had a daughter and heir called Margaret, the wife of
John Davenport, Esq., whom the jury in 1454 found to be but seventeen
years of age. A foolish girl marrying at that age.
The Cross or Pillar.—The Rev. G. F. Browne, Disney Professor
of Archaeology in the University of Cambridge, says: "At Stapleford
you have a sculptured pillar of quite unique beauty, of ornament and
interest. . . . and it now stands out revealed as a work of art. ...
It has on it the symbol of the Evangelist, St. Luke, a great winged
figure treading on a serpent, with the head, ears, and horns of a calf.
. . . The pillar takes us to a time before there was any church there
at all. It records for us the first taking possession by the first
Christian missionaries in the name of Christ and His Evangelist, St.
Luke." (Quoted in Cornelius Brown's ''Nottinghamshire.'')
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STAPLEFORD CROSS.. |
What is the lesson intended to be taught to us by the erection of
a cross in a public place? I think it is this:—" The Lord
Jesus Christ died upon the Cross in obedience to the will of His Father.
He thereby made an atonement for the sin of the world, and opened the
Kingdom of Heaven and all good to all believers By His blood there
shed we have access to God, and obtain pardon, purity and peace. He
loved us and gave Himself for us."
A cross has another message, a personal one, and it says:—"You
have been redeemed. Now you are not your own. Be an imitator of Him
who went about doing good, and who left the commandment, "Love
one another, as I have loved you."
For probably more than a thousand years the shaft of that old cross
has told its tale—sermons in stones. There were two in Nottingham
Market Place. Why? I think it was to teach the lesson, "Be just
and fair in your dealings. Do not cheat, steal or lie. Do as you would
be done by. Wrong doing crucified Christ on the Cross." See an
article in "Old Notts.," by P. Scattergood.)
Crosses.—Paulinus, who was one of the priests
sent by Pope Gregory to help Augustine in the work of converting the
Saxons, and who came to England in 601, 1,800 years ago, became Archbishop
of York, and came into Nottinghamshire and erected crosses. When St.
Wilfrid, who was Archbishop of York at the beginning of the 8th century,
travelled about his diocese, a large body of monks and workmen attended
him, and amongst these were the cutters in stone, who made and erected
the crosses on the spots which St. Wilfrid consecrated to the worship
of God.
The Patron Saint.*—The Church is dedicated to St. Helen. It
must have been originally dedicated to St. Luke, for the cross is probably
many years older than the Church and the anniversary of the dedication
of the Church, which is called "the Feast," or "the
Wakes," is regulated by St. Luke's Day. How and why the honour
was taken from St. Luke and given to St. Helen I do not know, but I
do know that Englishmen dearly love to honour a good woman, especially
a good queen. Queen Victoria is the patron saint of many a railway
station, park, bridge, and monument. It is nearly 1,600 years since
Helena died, and fact and fiction are so closely interwoven with regard
to her and her son that it is impossible to separate them. So I cannot
tell you whether she was the beautiful Helen of York, or of Deira,
or the daughter of an innkeeper in Bithynia, or the daughter of King
Coilus of Colchester, the original of " Old King Cole, a merry
old soul," a lady of unrivalled beauty, but there is little doubt
that when she was married her husband was an officer in the Roman army,
that she had to bear a grea.t wrong, and that when her son Constantine
became Emperor, he, like a good son, did full justice to his mother,
who was raised to Imperial dignity, and made Empress. She was distinguished
for her virtues of piety and alms-deeds. She went in and out among
the common people relieving distress, was a great help to her son,
and when eighty years of age went on his behalf to Jerusalem to superintend
the erection of a church on Mount Calvary, and there is said to have
discovered the true Cross. In the National Gallery, in London, there
is a fine painting by Paolo Veronese of the Vision of St. Helena, in
which she appears as a beautiful young woman wrapped in repose, but
not of sleep, with two beautiful child-angels above bearing the Cross.
That vision of the Cross changed her life. The Nottingham city arms
are thought to be based on the legend.
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